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In Which I Throw A Strop (Or Two)
June 18, 2008 by Mike
Paestum.
Route: Pompeii - Sorrento - Marciano - Positano - Amalfi - Ravello - Minori - Maiori - Vietri sul Mare - Salerno - Paestum
I hope you noticed my route today: read it and weep. Fanbloodytastic.
The road is everything you'd hope: snaking round cliffs and promontories, rising high for unforgettable views then dipping down to kiss the sea. But on the other hand, I wasn't able to stop for long in any of these wonderful places:
*Capri*
Being an island, a little hard to get to on the bike. But it looked cute, wreathed though it was in unseasonal sea mist.
*Positano*
.. is one long car-park.. for a mile either side of the town the small coastal road is lined with parked cars. Local as well as visitor, I have no doubt. These places were not built in the age of the combustion engine. That's the attraction.. but also their curse.
*Amalfi*
Pulled over and parked; a nearby shop-owner kindly pointed out that the parking police were very active in town. There was no space legally to park the bike.. but unlike every other Italian town and city, making do and/ or parking the bike on the pavement was out of the question.
Fair enough, it's a busy place.. but it would be striking thoughtful of the authorities to make space available for tourists in vehicles. Maybe they make enough money out of those who come and stay in the town itself.
I managed a quick coffee in the cafe next door, watching guests arrive for a wedding in the nearby church and passing the time of day with the cafe owner, Benito.
Benito: Ayyyy ay ay ayy. Amalfi isn't the way it used to be.
Mike: Uhm-hmmm?
Benito: I'm 67 now. But boy, when I was young.. let me tell you.. the tourists were RICH!
Mike: Uhm-hmmm?
Benito: Such class. The tips we got! Ahhh, but no more. Today the tourists pay for their coffee, and no more. They have no class.
Mike: Uhm-hmmm?
Benito: Of course, the service isn't so good today. I used to take real care. Now we serve the coffee and.. poof!, that's it.
Mike: Uhm-hmmm?
Benito: And the women? Oooooh, when I was young! [Left hand clasps right elbow; right arm extended in a decidedly tumescent fashion] The girls.. let me tell you.. I smiled.. they smiled.. we... we.. [Looks far into distance. A long pause]
Mike: Uhm-hmmm?
Benito: Anyway, now I am a grandfather. I leave all that to my nephew [gestures to the waiter] but.. let me tell you.. it's not the same.
Mike: Uhm-hmmm?
[Being a modern tourist with no class, I feel at liberty to point out that while Benito was still slim, fit and good-looking, his nephew was sweaty, overweight and sour-faced. So maybe the problem isn't just us no-class tourists?]
*Ravello*
A terrific climb up through the hills over Amalfi to reach the fabled cathedral city of Ravello. I rode every street of the town looking for a parking space for the bike. But there were none. I left.
*Minori*
In contrast, in lesser-known, but equally picturesque Minori, there were numerous parking spaces, for cars and bikes. Fantastic, I thought to myself, this place is a bit more real. I'll be able to stretch my legs and explore a real Amalfitanian town.
"Scusa, my friend," said the old man as I hopped off the bike. "This place for residents only." He gestured to a small sign halfway town the street. "You park over there," he pointed into the semi-distance, "and walk back here to visit my shop. No?"
No.
I've finally found some road rules the Italians obey.. when it suits them.
--
But allow me to reserve my most petulant, self-centred, petty gripe for Salerno, the larger city that marks the end of the Amalfi peninsula. It's a storied city of venerable and fascinating heritage. There are churches, museums, streets, people.. all fascinating, I'm sure. But the first thing I saw in Salerno was an official Triumph dealer. Hard and sharp on the brakes, I parked flamboyantly (but legally.. this time) in front of the shop, so both passers-by and the staff inside could see what the bike was, and wandered inside.
Forgive me for blowing my own trumpet, but a Bonnie with big panniers and GB plates, clearly on a Very Long Trip, is.. quite interesting. To a Triumph dealer, at least. I'd have thought. It has been in every other Triumph dealer I've seen, from Essex to Spain and many points in between. To the Salerno staff, though, it was as though I didn't exist. They didn't even nod a Hello. Too busy avoiding doing anything. Customers were trying to buy stuff (I'd have bought gloves if they'd shown any interest.. and if they'd actually had gloves for sale). Nope. Nothing.
It's not my loss, I thought to myself as I pulled away into the Salerno traffic. I know they don't think it's their loss either.. but frankly, I don't care about them any more.
And that, dear reader, is why I didn't stop in beautiful Salerno.
Comments
By Mike With | July 2, 2008 11:15 PM
Catherine -- Only you would go to Madrid for peace and quiet the week the selección wins the European Championships. I hope you enjoyed the party..
--Mike x
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By Catherine | June 28, 2008 6:16 PM
Hola desde Madrid! About as far from the seaside as you one can be, and wishing it were not as temperatures soar towards 40. Hmm - I thought I could work out here to get away from England for a while but not everyone has got air conditioning...
They have in the Prado, though. Menos mal!
Take care and enjoy the sand between your toes,
Catherine x