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In Which I Arrive In Town 64 Years Late
May 26, 2008 by Mike
Circeo
Route: Rome - Lido de Ostia - Anzio - Sabaudia - Circeo
Anzio.. Anzio.. I've heard that name before. Anzio.. Anzio.. Anzio? Anzio! Beachhead. The Anzio Beachhead. The beachhead at Anzio. Yes. Now.. what the hell's a beachhead? Yes. The Anzio beachhead.. Allied forces surprising Mussolini's Fascist troops during the invasion and steady campaign northwards through Italy.
So when I got there I circled the town in search of a museum. Eventually (because it's not that close to the sea) I found it. Had I spent another 48 hours tracking it down, it would have been open when I got there.. but not today.
I'll try to remember that next time I'm travelling around the coast of Europe.
Onwards to Sabaudia and Circeo, recommended by D*minique. Lovely roads, lovely islands out to sea, at Circeo a prominent hill that's been colonised by huge private houses -- there's a modern castle on the cusp of the hill, and on top, a Roman acropolis.
I was all set to brave the heat and hike the 200 metres of so to this extraordinary relic, but when I reached the car-park, I discovered it was at the foot of a cluster of radio masts.
Anyone who owns a modern Triumph motorcycle with Datatool alarm fitted will smile at my misfortune. The masts interfere with the alarm. The alarm is armed automatically 30 seconds after you take the keys out. As I can't leave the bike with the keys in.. I can't hike out to the acropolis.
So I find a campsite down on the beach, five miles from town, and have myself a beer instead.
Circeo towards Sperlonga
--
Today's couldn't-make-it-up driving: an ambulance trying to make its way down a busy street, nobody wanting to give an inch of their road space (because they know, full well, that every vehicle behind the ambulance is trying to take advantage of its slightly-faster-than-normal progress. Ambulance chasers, the lot of 'em.
Then a small Fiat actually pulled over to the side to let the ambulance through. My jaw dropped. I swear the ambulance driver did a double-take before edging past. And then.. the passenger door opened and a woman got out, turning to wave goodbye and stub her cigarette out in the same movement. The driver hadn't even noticed the ambulance.
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