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I Which I See Naples Again And Don't Die, Again
May 29, 2008 by Mike
Naples
Saw Naples.
Didn't die.
--
I learned today that the old streets are set out on a grid of 'stenopoi', precisely 185 metres long by 35 metres wide, that date back to the days of the Greek colony of Neopolis ('New Town'). The streets are more than two thousand years old.
That's one good reason to visit the Museum of National Archaeology.
Two others:
One
Most of the best bits of Pompeii are here. Lifted out before anyone considered turnig the site itself in to a destination.
Two
'The Secret Room' is here they put all the rude bits from Pompeii, Herculaneum and other Roman sites. The rude its are very rude and, how can I put this delicately?, very big.
Kids are only allowed in accompanied by a responsible adult. To see these images of adults behaving irresponsibly. Adults without a sense of humour should probably avoid too.
Blurred on purpose - in case your mother catches you reading this page...
--
Loved the Via dei Tribunali and the old, thin, dirtyy streets. 25 years ago I really thought I was taking my life in to my hands when I ventured up some of the ur-Napoli streets behind the Piazza del Pleboscito. Now they feature internet companies, graphic designers and hat shops. There's real poverty, too, but it seems un-threatening. Not placid, but not bitter.
--
I bought a book today, Gomorrah: Italy's Other Mafia by Roberto Saviano. Fabulous: I'm halfway through his seat-of-the-pants expose of the Neapolitan gangs, the Camorra, already.
But, given that he's writing about cold-blooded murders and murderers and bosses and capos and the like from the very street I was sitting on this evening, you won't be surprised to learn that I made quite an effort to hide the cover of the book.
More when I finish it.. if they let me.
--
Today's couldn't-make-it-up driving: this evening, I looked on slack-jawed at a woman riding a scooter:
** with (what appeared to be) both her mother and her daughter on the back
** none of them wearing helmets
** riding, on a dark evening, with no lights
** she emerged onto a main road from a car park by going through a red light
** or, to be more precise, she went the wrong side of the lights, riding towards oncoming traffic chasing a green traffic light of their own, before nipping over to her lane.
Nice one, ma'am. Five reasons to be pulled over, fined and/ or banned from riding. Possibly gaoled. In any European country except Italy, I imagine.
Comments
By gid | June 4, 2008 8:27 PM
Keep em coming. Reading these updates is just like being there. Almost. Escapism anyway. Kensal continues to rock.
Take it easy
Gidx
By phil | June 23, 2008 12:29 PM
So, 3+ weeks after you twice see Naples and don't die, everything goes quiet. Coincidentally, just before you enter Bandit Country in Sicily. Should we start to send out a search party ?
By Mike | June 24, 2008 10:26 AM
Phil (and anyone else who's noticed) -- Guten tag: it's ust so hard getting online in Italy. I think Berlusconi hides the internet from his adoring public so they can't discover what the rest of the world thinks of him (.. and them). But I may be able to et online at a wi-fi point this afternoon with a proper update.
--Mike
ps It's very sunny here.
By Nick | June 25, 2008 8:53 AM
Good to catch up on your antics - and see more great photos!
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By Charlotte Wiseman | June 3, 2008 10:44 AM
Hi Mikey, glad you are enjoying the Italian way of driving.. in the area where I partially live, most of the youngsters use their crash helmets as bags swinging on the handlbars of Vestas, in which they carry home Mama's shopping! Hope the sun comes out soon.