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In Which I Meet Uncle Manuel
September 28, 2007 by Mike
Vilanova de Arousa
Route: Fisterra - O Viso - Noia - Portosin - Ribeira - Catoira - Vilanova de Arousa
The road south of Finisterre hugs a coast that winds round bays, twisty inlets and estuaries like it was Norwegian. Out to the tip, winding inland and round and back out again. I ride 40 miles and can still see, a couple of miles across the water, to where I was an hour ago. Love it.
A highlight of the whole journey:
"Just before the small town of Carnota, there's a bar at a crossroads. Pop in and say Hello from me." The words of my good friend Diego, who designed and built this site for me (and without whom.. etc etc etc)
And why should I do that?
"My father was born in the house behind the bar. His brother still lives there." (If, like me, you like 'doing the voices', then Diego speaks with a rich Buenos Aires burr.. but his English is better than mine.) "My father was taken to Argentina as a child. His older brother stayed behind. And that.. that has put a strain on the family.. at times. It is a very different life from the one my father has in Argentina. Very difficult. Very strange."
You're right, Diego: very different, very difficult, all rather strange. The bar was full (all men, all hammered) at midday. A puppy sits at the door. Kittens scoot for cover at my approach. Yr uncle Manuel and cousin Manuel both send their regards and would love to see you. Yr cousin starts an IT course this autumn: I think he wants to be like you when he grows up.
And yes, there was a faraway look in Tio Manuel's eyes as he thought of you, of Argentina, of other ways of living, other opportunities, other lives. But then he clasped my shoulder: "You know," he gestured all the way from the hills to the sea, then turned to look me firmly in the eye, "this really is the most beautiful spot in the world."
--
Tio Manuel passed away a little over a week after I met him. It was good of him to talk to me. I shall remember with fondly.
--
The road south of O Viso stays close to the coast: good. But after Louro, where the land opens up beautifully, I hit suburb, I hit built-up, smoggy, industrial grunge, I hit reael life. Horrible, in a word.
--
I reach Vilanova de Arousa. There's an Arousa island too, and a Vilagarcia de Arousa. I want to go round this entire area adding an 'L' to all the road-signs.
I sunbathe in the afternoon and find a bar in the evening. My kinda day.
There are four campsites along the seafront, all facing the island. I am the only person in any of them tonight. (The tent? Thanks for asking. It's BRILLIANT!)
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By Rachel | October 3, 2007 8:36 AM
Did you go to Arousa island? The nature reserve part of it is great. At weekends full of families from Pontevedra on a Weston Super Mare caravanning trip, but with nicer coffee and octopus.