In Which I Take The Bonnie Home..
August 19, 2009 by Mike in Diary
Hello. Sunny, isn't it? [Typical Brit.. always going on about the weather.] I'm checking in here to say Hello.. to avoid doing any real work.. and to wave vigourously in...
Blimey
December 15, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Norwich A very warm Hello -- and if you're in Norfolk as you read those words, you'll appreciate the irony. Brrrrrr. I got back to this Fine City on Saturday.....
It's True... It's Over
December 4, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Dearest readers -- and believe me, you are all dear to me. Or should that be, you are both dear to me? Apologies for the way the updates have dried...
In Which I Hear A Short History Of Biking In Ukrainian
November 15, 2008 by Mike in Diary
K-9 Route: Odessa - Uzhney - Mikolaiev - Kherson - Armyansk - Krasnoperekopsk, otherwise known as K-9 [Ukrainian readers of a sensitive disposition should kindly note that I am transposing...
In Which I Come Over All Norman Tebbit
November 14, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Odessa It's like being in Roosia. When I venture to say 'Thank you' in Ukrainian, people laugh: this is most disconcerting. I have worked out why. They aren't laughing at...
In Which I Finally Get An Answer
November 13, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Odessa When I set out on this little jaunt, I had no idea how long it would take (872 days so far) or how far it would be (38,000 miles,...
In Which I Get In Steppe
November 11, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Odessa Route: Izmail - Tatarbunary - Bilgorod-Dnistrovskiy - Odessa [Ukrainian readers of a sensitive disposition should kindly note that I am transposing the names from my Ukrainian map (Cyrillic script)...
In Which I Get To Tick Off Moldova
November 10, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Izmail Route: Isaccea - Brăila - Galaţi - Giurgiulesti (Romania) - [1.4 miles of Moldova] - Reni (Ukraine) - Orlivka - Izmail I explored Isaccea early this morning before fleeing....
In Which I'm Speechless -- But Manage To Write Lots About It
November 9, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Isaccea Route: Constanţa - Mamaia - Istria - Tulcea - Isaccea Checked out. Went to a bank machine to get some more lev out. Card in, tap-tap-tap-tap: YOUR TRANSACTION IS...
In Which I Hear Echoes Of The Past
November 8, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Constanţa So.. what of Romania? The land of the Romans. Descendants, I have been told proudly, of retired Roman Legionnaries who retired to the delta of the Danube. I'd like...
In Which It All Smells Like 1973
November 7, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Constanţa Varna - Kavarna - Krapets - Durankulak (Bulgaria) - Varma Veche (Romania) - Mangalia - Constanţa I'm racing round the Black Sea because it's bloomin' chilly and it's only...
In Which I Whinge About The Whingers
November 6, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Varna Route: Burgas - Nesebar - Sunny Beach - Varna I was sad to say goodbye to my British chums in Burgas. The folks at the London are generous, inclusive...
In Which The Winner Is...
November 5, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Burgas I lounged all day and fetched up at The London in time for this: And very good it was too -- especially the topical 'Bond themes' round. Now then....
In Which I Gate Crash A Soap Opera All Stars Reunion
November 4, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Burgas Route: Tsarevo - Sozopol - Burgas So there I am riding along quite happily, wondering to myself, as y'do, if today will be a quiet enough day for me...
In Which A Triumph Bonneville Actually Manages To Break The Speed Limit
November 3, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Tsarevo/ Bulgaria Route: Istanbul - Bahçeköy - Arnavutküy - Vize - Dereköy - Malko Turnovo (Bulgaria) - Tsarevo Up the Bosphorus, through Beşiktaş and Bahçeköy, then Kemerburgaz to Göktürk, a...
In Which Raindrops Are Falling On My Head
November 1, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Istanbul Several days in Istanbul. Thousands of thoughts, sensations, images, faces, distractions, smells, smiles, perspectives, glances, windows, paces, flags, reflections, sounds. Thousands of years of history. Millions -- no, make...
In Which I Take A Pretty Picture
October 16, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Norwich Route: Istanbul - Stansted - Norwich (Just checking in to point out that nobody but nobody wants to read a blo-- I mean diary about me flying to the...
In Which I Reach The Golden Horn
October 15, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Istanbul Route: Gaziköy - Kumbağ - Tekirdağ - Istanbul I rode my motorbike in to Istanbul today. Sorry, but I'm going to repeat that. I rode my motorbike in to...
In Which It's All Rather Humbling
October 14, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Gaziköy -- Gallipoli. The remains of 36,000 Commonwealth soldiers lie in 31 cemetaries. I don't know if anyone counted the number of Turkish dead. I rode down to Anzac Cove....
In Which You Learn The Worst Possible Turkish Insult
October 13, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Koruköy Route: Porto Lagos - Komotini - Alexandroupouli - Kipi (Greece) - Ipsala (Turkey) - Kesan - Koruköy I love Turkey already. At the frontier, Greece waved me through without...
In Which I Have To Pull My Thumb Out
October 12, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Porto Lagos Route: Stavros - Kavala - Xanthi - Lagos There are so many petrol stations in Greece. Hundreds of 'em. Not as many as I found in Albania, but...
In Which I Head Off To Mount Athos
October 11, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Stavros Route: Ouranoupoli - Mount Athos by ship - Stavros Today wasn't about riding a bike -- even when I got to the small seaside town of Stavros this evening,...
In Which My Memory's Going -- I Blame My Age
October 10, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Ouranoupoli Route: Nea Marmaras - Ouranoupoli I'm riding to another deadline: I fly from Istanbul (not Constantinople, dear) on Thursday -- in six days -- so it's onwards and upwards...
In Which I, Err, Well, I, Umm..
October 9, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Nea Marmaras Route: Thessaloniki - Moudania - Nea Marmaras I rode to Nea Marmaras. It's a small town on Kassandra, the first of the three prongs of the Halkidiki peninsula...
In Which I Get To Tell My 'Arrested In Bulgaria For Spying' Anecdote
October 8, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Thessaloniki Four nights in Thessaloniki. A good city. When I visited Nice's Matisse Museum in May, I wrote: "There are works of art here that feature just half-a-dozen lines or...
In Which Autumn Is Sprung
October 4, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Volos Route: Volos - round Mount Pelion - Volos I was going to just say, in today's entry, "Why am I doing this trip? Pretty much, I'd say, for days...
In Which I Try Something New
October 3, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Volos Route: Livanates - Volos Today I rode from Livanates to Volos. It was nice enough. Nothing special. Nothing to write home about. So I thought I'd see if I...
In Which Less Very Nearly Becomes More
October 2, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Livanates Route: Rafina - Marathonas - Kalamos - Skala Oropou - Chalkida - thunderstorm - Paralia Livanates So much of our vocabulary comes from Ancient Greek. So many famous things...
In Which I Start To Go Off On One
September 30, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Athens Route: Ag.Theodori - Megarda - Elefsina - Athens Nb. I edited out 31 paragraphs from this entry before publishing it: on the Greek Orthodox Church; on religion in general;...
In Which I Enter The Greek Orthodox Church
September 27, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Ag.Theodori Route: Epidavros - a thunderstorm - Isthmia - (baptism) - Ag.Theodori Even though I have much too much to say about events this morning *before* the baptism, I'll start...
In Which My Day Just Isn't Cricket.. But Only Just
September 26, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Epidavros Route: Nafplio - Drepano - Portocheli - Galatas - Epidavros I woke early to find perfect conditions for a book cover photoshoot (hah!): .. and as an afterthought took...
In Which I Enter The Twilight Zone
September 25, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Nafplio Route: Kotronas - Githio - Skala - Monemvasia - Ag.Dimitrios - Kosmas - Nafplio One day in the Mani is not enough. Were it not for Saturday's baptism I'd...
In Which Venice Gets Some Serious Competition
September 24, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Kotronas Route: Finikounta - Koroni - Kalamata - Kardamyli - Areopoli - Gerolimenas - Kokkinogia - Kotronas Blimey, I wasn't expecting this. I could move here in a flash. Lost...
In Which I Reach Lilliput
September 23, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Finikounta Route: Alissos - Killini - Pirgos - Kiparissi - Pylos - Methoni - Finikounta A long ride down the west coast of the Peloponnese today. (And that's going to...
In Which It's All A Bit Run Of The Mill
September 22, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Alissos Route: Loutraki - Corinthos - Ancient Corinth - Xylokastro - Patra - Alissos Extraordinary things can't happen to me every day. I'm not Paddington Bear, after all. From Loutraki,...
In Which Steve P Gets His Own Back For All My Sunshine
September 21, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Loutraki Route: Delphi - Itea - Antikira - Livadia - Thiva - Erithres - Psatha - Sotira - Loutraki First thing: the museum at Delphi. Fanbloodytastic. But best of all...
In Which I Wax Nostalgic
September 20, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Delphi Route: Itea - Delphi It's all of eight miles to Delphi, through a wide plain of olive groves, then up a nearly vertical cliff on a fantastic road. I...
In Which I Test The Yellow Roads
September 19, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Itea Route: Amfilochia - Vonitsa - the Lefkada causeway - Mesolongi - Nafpaktos - Itea Something of a curate's egg of a day -- good and not so good (but...
In Which I'm Back On (Bumpy) Track
September 18, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Amfilochia Route: Athens - not very besidetheseaside - Amfilochia Athens was great. I did nothing (I'm not supposed to be here until I've been round half of the Greek coast)...
In Which I Get Ahead Of Myself
September 13, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Athens Route: Preveza - not very besidetheseaside - Athens With the bike booked in for a service in Athens, and my bestest buddy and his wife in town, I need...
In Which I Don't Cross A Picket Line.. Sort Of
September 12, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Preveza Route: Sarande - Butrint (Albania) - Igoumenitsa (Greece) - Preveza Stay tuned. There's a bizarre border crossing coming up after several paragraphs of waffle about Albania: There's a good...
In Which I Seem To Meet Half The Population Of Albania
September 11, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Sarandë Routë: Vlorë - Sarandë Thë road south from Vlorë starts off coastal, soon mëandërs inland through an ëmpty vallëy -- a fabulously ëmpty, ëvër-changingly ëmpty, but nëvërthëlëss indisputably ëmpty...
In Which I Am The Only Tourist In Town
September 10, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Vlorë I finally ovërcamë by fëar of asking old charactërs if I could takë thëir picturë. In many countriës, I still think thëy would say No. In Albania, old mën...
In Which Somëonë Elsë Has A Closë Shavë..
September 9, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Vlorë Routë: Durrës - Lushnjë - Fiër - Vlorë Hërë's a cautionary talë. Bëforë I had a chancë to publish today's wittërings on thë sitë, I got this commënt: hello,...
In Which I Havë A Closë Shavë
September 8, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Durrës I'm ill, in Durrës. I'vë nëvër bëën ill in Albania bëforë. In fact, if I ëvër gët closë to bëing ëmployëd ëvër again, and somëonë from Përsonnël starts chëcking...
In Which I Enter A Strange Old World
September 7, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Durrës Routë: Sutomorë - Ulcinj - Ada - Krutë - Vladimir - Sukobin (Montënëgro) - Murićani - Shkodër - Lëzhë - Durrës Wow. I'm in Albania. -- Ulcinj, thë southërnmost...
In Which Being Right Is Very Wrong
September 6, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Sutomore Dangnabbit. Yesterday's positive impressions of Serbia and the Serbs were spoiled first thing this morning by the drummer from last night's support band, one of the drinking gang, who...
In Which Tito Would Feel Very Much At Home
September 5, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Sutomore Billed as a "Traditional Moto Meeting In Adriatic Seaside", but with lots of mentions of 'Yugoslavia', I wasn't quite sure what to make of this, "the last bike rally...
In Which The Credit Crunch Reaches Montenegro
September 4, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Route: Kotor - Tivat - Rosa - Budva - Petrovac - Sutomore Croatia maintained a healthy tourist industry during the years of Tito's Communist Yugoslavia. Montenegro, further down the coast,...
In Which I Reach A New Country.. Literally
September 3, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Route: Dubrovnik (Croatia) - Igalo (Montenegro) - Herceg Novi - Perast - Kotor Montenegro is the 20th country I've visited on this trip (having crossed my 27th border). As an...
In Which I Can Stretch Out
September 2, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Dubrovnik In Dubrovnik.. and yet not in *Dubrovnik*. I rode this morning from the campsite towards the old town, sure enough, but was distracted and lead astray by a sign...
In Which I Come Down Again
September 1, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Dubrovnik Route: Mostar - Međugorje - Metcovič (Croatia) - Neum (Bosnia) - Slano (Croatia) - Dubrovnik Phew. I went off on one yesterday, didn't I? Being in Mostar will do...
In Which I Have Questions For Which There Can Be No Answers
August 31, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Mostar Route: Sučuraj - Drvenik - Metcovič - Dračevo (Bosnia-Hercegovina) - Mostar Happy anniversary to uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuus Happy anniversary to uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuus Happy anniversary dear Mike'n'Smaaaaanf Happy anniversary tooooooooooooooooo us Serious head...
In Which I Send An Email
August 30, 2008 by Mike in Diary
From: Mike With (mikewith@hotmail.com) Sent: 30 Augst 2008 To: vanessa@XXX.nz ___________________________________________________ Dear Van Thanks soooooo much for tipping me off about Hvar. All those years you told us how beautiful...
In Which My Ears Must Be Deceiving Me
August 29, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Sučuraj Route: Split - Dugi Rat - Makarska - Drvenik - Sučuraj A gentle ride, making sure that shock absorber survived. Time to reflect on the bizarre taste in music...
In Which I Feel Very Small
August 28, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Split Route: hotel in Split - campsite in Split Without wheels, I was stuck in Split town last night and found a bed in the cheapest hotel in town. (The...
In Which History Repeats Itself Repeats Itself
August 27, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Split Route: PrimoŠten - Trogir - Split What could be simpler? A quick run in glorious sunshine down a sublime coast road to one of the great destinations of the...
In Which I Try To Catch Up
August 26, 2008 by Mike in Diary
PrimoŠten As close to a day off as I've had for a while. Catch up on clothes washing, try to get this blo- I mean diary up-to-date, swim with the...
In Which I Don't Jump Off A Very Tall Bridge
August 25, 2008 by Mike in Diary
PrimoŠten I mentioned the war yesterday, didn't I? About how the traces are all too visible today. Here's what a Serb house looks like 15 years after it was abandoned....
In Which I Can't Avoid The War Any More
August 24, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Ražanac Route: Ribena - Karlobag - Starigrad - Maslenica - Obrovac - Karin - Ražanac A small village on the coast; perhaps a dozen houses and a church. On my...
In Which I Visit The Bourgeoisie
August 23, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Ribena Route: Mošcenička Draga - Opatija - Rijeka - Senj - Cesarica - Ribena Better get this out of the way first: I'm not really staying in a place called...
In Which I Get Tongue-Tied
August 22, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Mošcenička Draga Route: PoreC - Rovinj - Pula - Medulin - Labin - Mošcenička Draga I awoke this morning with an unfeasibly clear head, but only after I'd woken a...
In Which I'm Never Drinking Again. Again
August 21, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Poreč A day off -- cleainng my underwear and hoping it dried off before the "fifty Hell's angels" turn up. I also had a walk up here in the hill...
In Which It's Me, Oh Kathy
August 20, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Poreč Route: Ankaran - Koper - Izola - Piran - Sečovlie - Savudrija (Croatia) - Umag - Poreč 25 years ago I came to Yugoslavia with my skoolchum Andy Blyth....
In Which Everything Is As Sweet As
August 19, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Ankaran I don't say this lightly, because I'm talking about a country that I think is as wonderful as any I've ever been, but.. Slovenia reminds me of New Zealand....
In Which I Get Out Of Italy Before The Italian Drivers Can Get Me
August 18, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Ankaran Route: Cavallino - Caorle - Grado - Monfalcone - Trieste - Ankaran (Slovenia) And another thing about the Cavallino campsite: something to chew over while I work the pain...
In Which There's a Book With A Happy Ending
August 17, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Venice Here's a happy little story. Way back in April, in a fantastically cultured and under-developed little town called San Jose, at the very southeast tip of Spain, I bought...
In Which I Go Lala And Dipsy Over Po
August 16, 2008 by Mike in Diary
As I mentioned yesterday, I've been all over the shop in the last few weeks. Clearly, so has the site. But rather than take you on a whistlestop tour of...
In Which I Reappear. Just Like That.
August 15, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Venice Route: all over the place Hello. Remember me? I've not been here for the looooongest time: sorry. I blame Italy's ability to hide its cybercafes and, particularly, its wi-fi...
In Which I Have A Happy Birthday
July 26, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Venice Happy birthday to yoooooooooooooooou Happy birthday to yoooooooooooooooou Happy birthday dear BesideTheSeaside Happy birthday toooooooooooooooo you Yes, it was two years ago today that I set out for Murmansk....
In Which I'm All Shook Up
July 21, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Norwich Hello. Just interrupting my break back in the UK to point out that, at 15,561 days old, I am, today, exactly the same age that Elvis was when he...
In Which The Mystery Deepens
July 11, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Somewhere In Italy I've left lovely San Marino behind, a country that I seriously considered sticking in one of my panniers and taking with me for the rest of the...
In Which I Flounce Out Of Italy
July 10, 2008 by Mike in Diary
San Marino Route: Numana - Ancona - Rimini (Italy) - San Marino I have absolutely nothing good to say about Numana or the Conero Azzurro campsite. I'm not going to...
In Which My Soul Remains Unsaved
July 8, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Numana Route: Lido del Sole - Pescara - Civitanova - Numana I could have turned inland today to visit the most popular tourist attraction in Italy. San Giovanni Rotondo is...
In Which Things Heat Up
July 7, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Lido del Sole Route: Giovinazzo - Manfredonia - Pugnochiuso - Lido del Sole Today would have been about the two bikers I met in Manfredonia from... Norwich. Yes! Well, Old...
In Which I Have A Real Sunday Lunch
July 6, 2008 by Mike in Diary
The Town With No Name Route: Otranto - Turchi - Casalabate - Brindisi - Monopoli - Bari - The Town With No Name A genuine news article in the newspaper:...
In Which I Forget To Write Thousands Of Words About My Day
July 5, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Otranto A day spent topping up the tan. I'm much to busy to type. After this, I have to head north: I have a date 1000 kilometres and more away....
In Which It All Gets Worryingly Zen
July 4, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Route: Marina de Ginosa - Marina di Castellaneta - Taranto - Gallipoli - San Maria di Leuca - Otranto Yesterday's entry turned out something like a photo-story from "Jackie" magazine,...
In Which Christ Did Indeed Stop At Eboli
July 3, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marina de Ginosa Route: Scanzano Jonico - Aliano - Scanzano - Marina di Castellaneta - Marina de Ginosa I may have been slightly cryptic last night when I revealed how...
In Which I Hope Neil Young Will Remember
July 2, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Scanzano Jonico Route: Calounia Marina - Crotone - Scanzano Jonico It was time to pay up and leave Camping Afrodite. Bruno, who had been really interested to hear about the...
In Which I Realise I Forgot To Pack A Clothes Iron
July 1, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marina di Calounia Marina Happy birthday to yoooooooooooou Happy birthday to yoooooooooooou Happy birthday dear Frankieeeeee Happy birthday toooooooooooo you x -- Three days in Marina di Calounia to recharge...
In Which It's Just Like Being In New York
June 28, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Route: Isola de Femmine - Palermo - Corleone - Prizzi - Termini - Messina - Villa San Giovanni A long day: Palermo, Corleone, a terrible storm, a brilliant stretch of...
In Which Oiy Fink Oiy Louk Loik Dick Vaahn Dyke
June 27, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Isola de Femmine Route: San Leone - Castlevetrano - Marsala - Trapani - Erice - Isola de Femmine Up and away bright and early. San Leone was never likely to...
In Which I'd Rather Not Sleep With The Fishes, Thank You Very Much
June 26, 2008 by Mike in Diary
San Leone Route: Catania - Augusta - Siracusa - Avola - Pozzallo - Gela - San Leone Full speed ahead. That means no sight-seeing in Catania and, having diverted in...
In Which Everything Goes Back To Front
June 25, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Catania Route: Tropea - Bagnara Calabra - Scilla - Villa San Giovanni - Messina (Sicily) - Nizza de Sicilia - Catania I wasn't going to do it. I really wasn't....
In Which We Discuss The German Divorce Rate
June 24, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Tropea It's a beautiful, storied, historical town -- narrow streets, old decaying palaces and defensive walls intact. There's a church on a little outcrop right on the beach. It looks...
In Which I Host A Brief Debate Between Darwin And The Catholic Church
June 23, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Tropea Route: Paola - Amanta - Pizzo - Briatico - Tropea Some highlights from my morning paper, 'Calabria Ora': p2 A student from Parma has been fined 148€ for using...
In Which I Join The Gang
June 22, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Paola Route: Marina de Camerota - Policastro - Sapri - Praia a Mare - Paola I've stopped for the night in the first workaday, boring town I've seen in a...
In Which I Go Drinking With Johnny Depp.. Sort Of
June 21, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marina de Camerota I got here yesterday.. a great day.. and had absolutely no inclination to leave today. Not while the pool is this cool. A great day. Spent the...
In Which Things Get Better And Better
June 20, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marina de Camerota Route: Paestum - Agropoli - Castellabate - Palinuro - Marina de Camerota Two nights in a campsite near Paestum. Yesterday, I just hung out in the campsite...
In Which I Throw A Strop (Or Two)
June 18, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Paestum. Route: Pompeii - Sorrento - Marciano - Positano - Amalfi - Ravello - Minori - Maiori - Vietri sul Mare - Salerno - Paestum I hope you noticed my...
In Which I Hope You're Still Out There, Somewhere
June 17, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Pompeii Route: Norwich - Stansted - Rome - Pompeii Kinky Friedman was magnificent. Sarah looked ravishing and Martin elegant at the wedding of the year. And I've had a funny,...
In Which I Sign Off For A Wee While
June 3, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Heading Back Home Again Route: Pompeii - Rome - Stansted - Norwich As I wrote on Sunday night, I need an early night and lots of sleep because I need...
In which I Am Brief & To The Point. For Once
June 1, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Pompeii Something of a day off today. It's just a bit strange, having a day off and not doing anything touristy, when yr tent is pitched two minutes' walk from...
In Which I Am In My Pomp-eii
May 31, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Pompeii How lucky am I? Yesterday I visited the ruins of Herculaneum and today I visited Pompeii. (I also ate the world's best pizza.. both days.. didn't get rained on.....
In Which I Am In Ruins
May 30, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Pompeii Route: Naples - Ercolano - Pompei Today's couldn't-make-it-up driving: that'll be the Englishman on a long voyage besidetheseaside who rode out from the centre of Naples during the morning...
I Which I See Naples Again And Don't Die, Again
May 29, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Naples Saw Naples. Didn't die. -- I learned today that the old streets are set out on a grid of 'stenopoi', precisely 185 metres long by 35 metres wide, that...
In Which I See Naples And Don't Die
May 28, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Naples Route: Circeo - Mondragone - Naples Sperlonga lies at the other end of the Circeo beach. There's a hill here too, with a view back down along the beach...
In Which I Include A Photo Of George Clooney In A Shameless Attempt To Increase Page Views
May 27, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Circeo A bit of a day off. Catching up with the blo-- I mean diary. Washing my smalls. Lounging on the beach and having my longest conversation to date in...
In Which I Arrive In Town 64 Years Late
May 26, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Circeo Route: Rome - Lido de Ostia - Anzio - Sabaudia - Circeo Anzio.. Anzio.. I've heard that name before. Anzio.. Anzio.. Anzio? Anzio! Beachhead. The Anzio Beachhead. The beachhead...
In Which I Go Off On One
May 25, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Rome Oh come on, do you really think that's all I did yesterday? I visited one of the Bonaparte family palaces, now the Napoleon Museum. I returned to the Vatican...
In Which I Do Nothing. Incredible
May 24, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Rome D*minique and St*ph*n went away for Saturday night with the kids. I'd like to point out that they didn't go because I was in their flat. (Dominique, that's not...
In Which I Change My Tune
May 23, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Rome Route: Castel Fusano - Rome Remember I mentioned a few days ago that my friend in Rome, Dominique, had recommended Orbetello? Please forget it. I do have a friend...
In Which I Have To Say Goodbye To Some Old Friends
May 22, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Castel Fusano Washed some clothes in the morning. It's not all glamour, this life. But made up for it this afternoon: the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums. Even if...
In Which I Try To Clear My Conscience
May 21, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Castel Fusano Day Two in Rome. What with waking up, getting up, clicking my back back into place, hoovering up some coffee and making the walk-Metro journey in to the...
In Which I Fall In Love With.. A City
May 20, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Castel Fusano Route: Lido de Ostia - Castel Fusano (just under four kilometres) Having got to Rome moments after darkness fell and moments before a thunderous storm, I'm glad to...
In Which I Get Ahead Of Myself
May 19, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Lido de Ostia Route: Follonica - Castiglione della Pescaia - Grosseto - Orbetello - Civitavecchia - Lido de Ostia Blimey. I'm in Rome. OK, so I'm in Lido de Ostia,...
In Which It's all About Biking, But The Kind With Pedals
May 18, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Follonica A quiet, lazy Sunday morning and a lazy, quiet Sunday evening bookended a bit of fun this afternoon. France has the Tour de France; Italy has the Giro d'Italia....
In Which I Generalise, Sweepingly
May 17, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Follonica Route: Marina de Pisa - Livorno - San Vincenzo - Piombino - Follonica I've just remembered: there's another reason I was a little wary of going out with the...
In Which I Pay The Price
May 16, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marina de Pisa Got a wee bit drunk last night. Woke up. No headache. Good. Clothes off and I'm in my sleeping bag. No real memory of how we got...
In Which I Have A Day Of Three Halves
May 15, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marina de Pisa Route: Camogli - Cinque Terre - La Spezia - Viareggio - Pisa - Marina de Pisa Morning: Drizzle in Portofino, where there is literally no space to...
In Which I Sound Like A Daily Mail Reader - Yuck
May 14, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Camogli Route: Albenga - Genoa - Camogli My second day in Italy and almost my last. Not last as in, I nearly died in a hideous traffic accident caused by...
In Which You Couldn't Make It Up
May 13, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Albenga Route: Monaco - a bit of France - Ventimiglia, Italy - San Remo - Albenga Some things I noticed in Monaco this morning, despite my hangover: * There's a...
In Which I Get To Be Tres Monaco
May 12, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Monaco Route: Valbonne - Nice - Cap Ferrat - Monaco On Vibeke and Eivind's recommendation, visits to the Chagall and Matisse museums in Nice. It's no surprise that the Matisse...
In Which I Go Up In The World
May 11, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Valbonne Far below us: Cannes to the right, Antibes straight ahead and Nice to the left. Beyond, the Mediterranean stretches far beyond the horizon. [I need to learn how to...
In Which I Go To Tea
May 10, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Valbonne Route: A Campsite Quite Near St Tropez - Cannes - Antibes - Juan-les-Pins - Valbonne I have an aunt and uncle who own a home in the hills overlooking...
In Which.. Oh, See For Yourself
May 9, 2008 by Mike in Diary
A Campsite Quite Near St Tropez Still here. ;-) -- St Tropez harbour: one of these vehicles is worth gazillions.. but the other is priceless....
In Which I 'Fess Up
May 7, 2008 by Mike in Diary
A Campsite Quite Near St Tropez This is difficult for me to write. I've been denying it to myself for some time now but.. well.. *sigh*.. I can't live this...
In Which It Looks Like I Spent All Day Writing, But Didn't
May 6, 2008 by Mike in Diary
A Campsite Quite Near St Tropez Route: Marseille - La Ciotat - Six-Fours - Toulon - Hyeres-Plage - St Tropez - A Campsite Quite Near St Tropez So there I...
In Which I Briefly Want To Be Laurel Or Hardy
May 5, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marseille Two days in the big city. Bit of beach. Bit of a wander and a bit of a gander. The museums are tiny: the Marine Museum - two side...
In Which I Am The Youngest Resident of Marseille Youth Hostel
May 3, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marseille Route: Saintes Maries de la Mer - Marseille OK so it wasn't quite like riding in to St Petersburg or Barcelona, but you know what?, it beats the hell...
In Which I Twitch
May 2, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Saintes Maries de la Mer I managed a decent night's sleep, which was more than I expected. On one side of the tent, an Anglo-French couple who'd spent the entire...
In Which I Flee From Cowboys & Backpackers
May 1, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Saintes Maries de la Mer Route: Cap d'Agde - Stes Maries Happy May Day, everyone. I rode past a high school named after Rosa Luxemburg today, which seemed appropriate. (Last...
In Which I Eavesdrop
April 30, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Cap D'Agde So I'm sitting in a cybercafe in Cap d'Agde. Two terminals down, an Englishman is having trouble connecting to Skype. I find him a set of headphones, the...
In Which The Speedos Stay *On*
April 29, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Cap D'Agde Route: Narbonne - Cap D'Agde Didn't ride too far today. Two reasons: 1. France's southern coast is so short. Remember the old Twix advert - "One snack.. and...
In Which France Is Very French
April 28, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Narbonne Route: Port-Verges - Narbonne In my little world, where things pretty much only happen in order to provide ammunition for this blo-- I mean diary, it goes without saying...
In Which I'm No Longer In Any Spain
April 27, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Port-Vendres Route: Lloret de Mar - Tossa de Mar - Figueres - Cadaques - Port Bou (France) - Cerbere (France) - Port-Vendres 236 days and a shade under 6,000 miles...
In Which This Entry Nearly Didn't Get Written
April 26, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Lloret de Mar Route: Barcelona - Lloret de Mar 32,500 miles on the clock, 18 months after I started the trip.. (not to mention 42 years since I started this...
In Which I Pay Homage To George Orwell
April 25, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Barcelona Still here;-) But this will be my last night: every room at the inn is taken tomorrow ahead of the Grand Prix on Sunday. I looked at prices to...
In Which I Pay A Visit To The Holy Family, Of All People
April 24, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Barcelona I'm not getting tired of Barcelona: hope you're not. Another brilliant Barcelona day -- the Sagrada Familia is worth the hype.. as architecture, as icon, as achievement. Part of...
In Which I Spend The Whole Day Grinning
April 23, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Barcelona I've been a bit cheeky over the last couple of days: lovin' Barcelona; not reporting back too much. Sorry, but I've been too busy having too much fun. And...
In Which I Appeal To Reason(s)
April 22, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Barcelona Still here; still loving it. I'm trying to think of a *single* reason why I shouldn't move to Barcelona when the trip is finished. Nothing so far. -- Update:...
In Which Many Of The Beautiful People Appear
April 21, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Barcelona Still here; still loving it. I think perhaps they put added Cute in the water supply. The Catalans are beautiful. The many people who have immigrated here, internally from...
In Which There Is No Room At The Inn
April 20, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Barcelona Route: Peniscola - Amposta - Tarragona - Sitges - Barcelona OK I have to confess there's a bit of downbeat news to report -- I'm sticking it at the...
In Which I Am Shocked, Again
April 19, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Peniscola I'm still here, then. For a town I planned to spend 20 minutes in, I'm getting used to Peniscola. To waking up in my tent on the slightly misleadingly-named...
A Little Bit Of Website Business
April 18, 2008 by Mike in Diary
I'm holed up in a little town called Peñiscola -- stop sniggering at the back -- after the rear suspension snapped on the bike. If it had to happen anywhere,...
In Which I Lock Myself In
April 15, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Benicassim I'm staying in a very nice, very quiet, very cheap hotel on the seafront. For the same price as the campsite in Benidorm, I get real walls, a roof,...
In Which I Wuz Robbed
April 14, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Benicassim Route: Malva-Rosa - Villareal - Castellon - Grau - Benicassim I was saying yesterday how good the campsite was, wasn't I? Hmmmm. Spoke too soon. Soft ground to pitch...
In Which I Check In To The Hotel California
April 13, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Malva-Rosa I liked Valencia yesterday -- not just the beautiful women, but the buildings big and small, the sense of space, and it helps to see a big city like...
In Which I Find A Use For My Chewing Gum
April 12, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Cullera Sunbathed. Checked email. Drank.. coffee. It's a quiet place. And in the afternoon, rode in to Valencia -- 40km north -- to go to the footie: Valencia were awful:...
In Which I Am Spoiled For Choice
April 11, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Cullera Route: Benidorm - Calpe - Moraira - Denia - Gandia - Cullera Nobody had much advice for me when I was in northern Finland, Kaliningrad or Belgium. It's a...
In Which I Find Myself Singing Shang-A-Lang..
April 10, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Benidorm Last night and tonight, Benidorm has done me proud. I've seen -- for free -- the Beatles (twice), Elvis, Tina Turner, Abba, the Temptations, Eddie Cochran, Lionel Ritchie, three...
In Which I Am Much Vexed By Snogging Pensioners
April 9, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Benidorm Route: El Campello - Villajoyosa - Benidorm First things first: if anyone ever corners you at a party and tells you there just aren't enough old people snogging in...
In Which I Have A Little Plan
April 7, 2008 by Mike in Diary
El Campello Route: Cartagena - La Manga - Torrevieja - Santa Pola - Alicante - El Campello <RANT> Out of the city and as far away from that brothel-cum-pension as...
In Which I Get On My High Horse
April 6, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Cartagena I spent Sunday doing the museum thang. It's been a while: somehow, southern Spain, and the Algarve before it, for all its history and culture, doesn't suit the cultural...
In Which My Loins Are Stirred
April 5, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Cartagena Route: San Jose - Carboneras - Mojacar - Puerto de Mazarron - Cartagena Let me show you why I enjoyed this ride so much: Coast roads aren't supposed to...
In Which I Take A Stroll Down Strummer Street
April 4, 2008 by Mike in Diary
San Jose The French schoolkids were up and out of the site, tents, zits, teenage angst and all, before I emerged into the morning sun. Either that confirms it was...
In Which I Hum 'Spanish Bombs In Andalucia'
April 3, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Cabo de Gata I've slowed right down. As I write this I'm sitting in the bar at the campsite in San Jose, listening to the Mescaleros. Mine host is an...
In Which I Know The Way To San Jose
April 1, 2008 by Mike in Diary
San Jose Route: Orgiva - Motril - El Ejido - Almeria - Cabo de Gata - San Jose I cheated a bit yesterday. I wasn't busy, but the day was...
In Which The Title Is Longer Than The Blo- I Mean Diary Entry
March 31, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Orgiva I've had busier days. ;-)...
In Which Helicopter Nick Disappears
March 30, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Orgiva I've timed my entry into this magikal world just right. Today is Sue's birthday party -- a gathering of the clans, longhairs arriving from their houses and huts (and...
In Which I Find Myself Beside BesideTheSeaside
March 29, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Orgiva Route: Nerja - Maro - La Herradura - Motril (oops) - Lanjaron - Orgiva I am camped in a mountainous area called the Alpujarra, a dozen miles from the...
In Which I Am Transported Back to 1988
March 28, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Nerja Route: Torremolinos - Málaga - Torre del Mar - Nerja I've previously got lost trying to find Málaga airport: I suspect most people in western Europe have, too, at...
In Which I Finally Get To Insult Ipswich.. From A Distance
March 27, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Torremolinos Route: Marbella - Fuengirola - Benalmadena - Torremolinos Yesterday? Flip flops and a fleece: recovering from the night before, a little unsure of how the weather would turn out...
In Which I Have A Day in Three Parts (Sort Of)
March 25, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marbella Part One: In The Morning Hopped on the bike and braved the N-340 to check out Marbella and Puerto Banus. A word about the N-340 -- a road notorious...
In Which I Set Off Once More Unto The Breach
March 24, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Marbella Route: Tarifa - Gibraltar - Estepona - Puerto Banus - Marbella As I started typing the day up I wrote 'Tarifa' instead of 'Marbella'. After 144 days in the...
In Which I Sing 'On The Ball City'
March 23, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Tarifa I made it back to Trafalgar just three days after saying I probably wouldn't. Can you believe a word I say from now on? Can I? For example -...
In Which We Meet The Men In Hats
March 22, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Tarifa No biking to speak of in the last few days. Just rain, dog-walking, sunbathing, wind, more rain, more sunbathing, house red and a couple of long nights down in...
In Which I Pick The Wrong Day To Do The Washing
March 19, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Tarifa Four-and-a-half months since I arrived in Tarifa and I finally got round to riding back to Cadiz - 60 short miles up the coast and a city I by-passed...
In Which My Plans For Albania Are A Wash Out
March 18, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Tarifa Gibraltar - Tarifa A big thanks to Charlie and Squeaky at Klaus' No.1 Bikes in Gibraltar for storing the bike, servicing the bike and.. gulp.. cleaning the bike. Or,...
In Which I Spend A Strange Night In A Parallel Universe
March 17, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Gibraltar Route: Tarifa - Norwich - Tarifa - Norwich - Tarifa - Norwich - Gibraltar Me again. Back in Spain-ish. I flew in to GIB but got no further. It...
In Which I Read A Book
March 15, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Did you hear the one about this bloke called Mike -- 42 years old, a journalist (of sorts), recently divorced, bought a motorbike and rode it around Europe? He's just...
In Which A Stranger Returns
January 21, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Tarifa Route: Tarifa - Norwich - Tarifa - Norwich - Tarifa - Norwich - Tarifa Not many entries here recently. Not much besidetheseasideness to report. Not much biking: I returned...
In Which It Turns Out Mao Was Right All Along
January 10, 2008 by Mike in Diary
Rafina Route: Athens - Piraeus - Sounio - Markopoulo - Rafina Athens must be one of the largest cities I've traversed on this trip in terms of area. In the...
¡Feliz Navidad!
December 22, 2007 by Mike in Diary
So it turns out that the rain in Spain doesn't stay mainly on the plain. I can vouch for that, sitting under a stupidly tropical rainstorm in Tarifa - the...
In Which I Bring You Up To Date
November 27, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Tarifa Real life crept back into my life this month. I reached Tarifa on Friday 2nd. Had a brilliant few days with Hernan and Annie, Lucas and Malena: Gibraltar on...
Sad news
November 12, 2007 by Mike in Diary
I'm not beside the seaside at the moment. My dear, lovely, kind, thoughtful, generous, sweet, gentle, funny, inspiring Ma died on Friday evening. She never wanted to hear how much...
In Which I Appear In Print
November 9, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Hernan asked me to write an article for his newspaper, El Duende. Very nice of him. It was translated into Spanish by his colleague Vanesa. Very nice of her. Err.....
In Which I Reach Rock Bottom
November 2, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Tarifa Route: Punta Umbria - Matalascanas - Almonte - Sevilla - Los Palacios - Pinzon - Puerto Real - Tarifa ***** Note: This entry was written before my Ma died...
In Which I Perform A Colonic Investigation
November 1, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Punta Urbano Pity the Portuguese. From Porto Lisbon to Sines to Sagres, I've followed, noted, recorded and enjoyed their celebration of a supreme heritage of maritime exploration. But it has...
In Which I Have A Day Of It
October 31, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Punta Urbano There's less 'bike' in this blo- I mean diary than you might expect, or be looking for. That's because, while I love riding the thing, I don't pretend...
In Which My Journey Takes Me, Briefly, To North Korea
October 30, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Punta Umbria Route: Olhao - (Portugal) - Ayamonte (Spain) - Punta Umbria I arrived in Portugal from Spain on a ferry, at the mouth of a river, in the rain....
In Which I Get Excited By.. A Loo Seat
October 29, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Olhão Route: Lagos - Portimao - Albufeira - Faro - Olhão (on Sunday) Saturday night in Lagos, one of the bigger towns on the Algarve. (I didn't get to write...
In Which I Turn Left
October 27, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Sao Vicente has good reason to rue the existence of Cabo da Roca (the westernmost point in continental Europe) and Finisterre (the end of the earth) because without them it...
In Which Portugal's Rutted Roads Wreak Their Revenge
October 26, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Sao Vicente Route: Villa Nova de Milfontes - Azenha do Mar - Odeceixe - Vila do Bispo - Sagres - Cabo de Sao Vicente Happy biiiiiiirthday to you Happy biiiiiiirthday...
In Which I Ride Through Toytown
October 25, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Villa Nova de Milfontes Route (on Wednesday): Jerez - Sevilla - Cortegana (Spain) - Beja - Santiago do Cacem - Sines - Villa Nova de Milfontes The 300+ miles from...
In Which I Jet Back.. Again
October 23, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Jerez de la Frontera, Spain I *swear * this happened. I flew back from Stansted to Jerez this afternoon; sad to say goodbye for a few weeks to my parents...
In Which I Jet Off.. Again
October 14, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Jerez de la Frontera, Spain I'm 300 miles off course -- and flying back to Norridge to see the folks. 300 fabulous miles -- A-roads, empty, hilly, sunny, glorious, hill...
In Which I Fall For The Charms Of Europe's Last Remaining Virgin
October 13, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Sines Route: Lisbon - Setúbal - Troia - Sines Bye bye Lisbon: I could have stayed here a lot longer, but needs must. a) I need to find a campsite...
In Which I Slink Into Lisbon's Back Streets
October 12, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Lisbon What exciting things have I managed to fill my days with? I've bought a new tent. Again, got a great price, but this is also a proper brand --...
In Which I Stop Circling The Outskirts Of Lisbon
October 10, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Lisbon Route: Guincho - Cascais - Estoril - Lisbon As the crow flies I've covered about 30 miles in the last three days - curly roads and back roads to...
In Which I Name And Shame
October 9, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Sintra Here's a little BesideTheSeaside special. Here's the taxi, registration 70-44-JZ, which tried to overtake me in the middle of Sintra this afternoon as I was riding.. just above the...
In Which The Pictures Tell The Story
October 9, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Guincho Route: Praia Grande - Azenhas do Mar - Sintra - Cabo da Roca - Guincho And for the third day in a row I'm obliged to apologise for having...
In Which I Cavort, That's The Only Word For It
October 8, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Praia Grande Route: São Martinho do Porto - Obidos - Peniche - Ericeira - Praia Grande At the risk of repeating myself -- another good day. One that ended with...
In Which I Come Home -- Well, Micaela's Home
October 7, 2007 by Mike in Diary
São Martinho do Porto Route: Costa Nova - Praia da Mira - Pedrogao - Nazaré - São Martinho do Porto Happy birthday Smanf! x This has been one of the...
In Which Yr Correspondent Appears To Be Naked
October 6, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Costa Nova I'm going to try to write this entry as simply as possible. A followed by B followed, yes, by C. If the prospect appals you, here's a brief...
In Which I Love Sweden All Over Again
October 5, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Costa Nova Route: Vila Do Conde - Porto - Ovar - San Jacinto - Estarreja - Aveiro - Costa Nova There's a National Road quite close to the coast. I'd...
In Which I Spill The Beans?
October 4, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Vila Do Conde Ha ha hee hee.. I know you've only clicked here to find out about my date ;-) And the truth is.. I *am* a gentleman.. and a...
In Which I Swap Biking For Life As A Suburban Commuter
October 3, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Vila Do Conde In the nicest possible way, I appear to have taken root here. This is a happy state of affairs, for the campsite is as friendly and accommodating...
In Which I Start To Smell Portuguese
October 1, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Vila Do Conde Route: Viana do Castelo - Esposende - Povoa do Varzim - Vila Do Conde They can call it the Costa Verde if they want to, but we...
In Which I Briefly Wonder If This Is Kazakhstan
September 30, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Viana do Castelo I sat this afternoon in intermittent sunshine, in the Public Gardens of Viana do Castelo, down on the riverfront. (Viana is BesideTheSeaside but the centre of town...
In Which A New Country Appears Before My Eyes, Sort Of
September 29, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Viana do Castelo Route: Vilanova - Vigo - La Guardia - Caminha (Portugal) - Viana do Castelo Spain disappears in my rear-view mirrors, not only rain-splattered but -- finally --...
In Which I Meet Uncle Manuel
September 28, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Vilanova de Arousa Route: Fisterra - O Viso - Noia - Portosin - Ribeira - Catoira - Vilanova de Arousa The road south of Finisterre hugs a coast that winds...
In Which I Reach The End Of The World
September 27, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Finisterre Route: A Coruna - Malpica - Laxe - Muxia - Fisterra (Finisterre) I couldn't leave A Coruna without seeing the Tower Of Hercules, but now that I have, you...
In Which I Issue An Open Invitation
September 26, 2007 by Mike in Diary
A Coruna Route: O Barquiero - A Coruna A day in Three Parts. Part One: Loving The Galician Coast I need volunteers. I've found a place to live. Not just...
In Which I Come Over All Huckleberry Finn
September 25, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Barqueiro There's a pale old yellow moon tonight. I'm sitting on somebody's balcony looking out over the port, the harbour, the estuary of the Rio Barqueiro and the ugly town...
In Which I Hum A Frank Sidebottom Tune To Myself
September 24, 2007 by Mike in Diary
O Barqueiro Route: Gijon - Navia - Ribadeo - Viveiro - O Barqueiro I god a cowd id by doze. *At-CHOO* -- What does Spain look like? Hot desert, scrubby...
In Which The Fog Descends
September 23, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Gijon I had a drink or two last night. I spent the first half of today on the beach, doing not very much at all. It felt like the right...
In Which It's A Tough Life And No Mistake
September 22, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Gijon Route: Unquera - Llanes - Ribadesella - Villaviciosa - Gijon I'm thinking of starting a support group for certain places around Europe that suffer an absence of British tourists....
In Which I Am Tormented By Tormentas
September 21, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Route: Santander - Unquera Way back on 11 August last year I saw the rock paintings at Alta in Arctic Norway. Today I visited the Paleolithic cave paintings at Altamira....
In Which I Take A Short Holiday
September 20, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Thursday 13th September Morning on the beach. Afternoon on the plane. Evening on the train. Norwich by night. Back in a week. --Mike x Thursday 20th September Breakfast in Norwich....
In Which I Confess, And Mooch, And Catch My Breath
September 12, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Santander Route: Bilbao (Basque Country) - Santander (Spain) I can't hide from you, gentle and alert reader, that I got way behind on this blo- I mean diary. (If you're...
In Which I Do The Museum Thing
September 11, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Bilbao Route: Gernika - Bilbao I better get this out of the way first: Bilbao is the Spanish name of the city. In Basque, it's Bilbo. I can't bring myself...
In Which I Ride the Perfect Road
September 10, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Attention bikers. Give up yr job. Leave yr family. Sell yr house. Get here as soon as you can: Click this link! Ride this road every day, back and forth,...
In Which I Could Stop Right Here
September 9, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Donostia I've been here for a few days. It feels like I've been here for years -- luvverly. My cousin Diana *has* been here for years. She was teaching English...
In Which I Basque In The Sun (.. sorry about the pun)
September 5, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Donostia Route: Bayonne (France) - Irun (Basque Country) - Donostia/ San Sebastian As much as I disliked Bayonne last night, I loved it this morning. Swap a down-at-heel motel next...
In Which My Prediction Turns Out To Be Right
September 4, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Bayonne Route: Capbreton - Biarritz - Bayonne I should have guessed. In yesterday's thrilling update I worried that I'd get a sleepness night because of a yapping dog and Rory...
In Which I Predict A Bad Night's Sleep
September 3, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Capbreton Monday morning. OK With: back to work. It's not a long ride from Arcachon down to Capbreton but it's significant: I've cracked the back of France. I can (almost)...
In Which I Have Precious Little To Add
September 2, 2007 by Mike in Diary
I've taken a holiday from my strenuous work for a few days. I've been on the bike a lot, but following my nose rather than the coastline. Inland. Sweeping, fast...
In Which I Eat my Words
August 29, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Arcachon Route: Bordeaux - Margaux - Arcachon My good friend Liselle has been looking at the map on her wall. "You're heading towards Arcachon. It's got a lovely sand dune,"...
In Which I.. *hic*.. Visit a Vineyard
August 28, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Bordeaux Monday I spent in town, Tuesday I spent round and about. Monday I went on a walking tour of the city. Yes, one of those 'touristy' things I'm not...
In Which I Stay Remarkably Sober
August 26, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Bordeaux Route: La Rochelle - Marennes - Royan - Mortagne - St Ciers - Blaye - Bordeaux There can't be many better ways to spend a Sunday than riding through...
In Which I Find A Little White-Walled House By The Sea
August 25, 2007 by Mike in Diary
La Rochelle A couple of days in La Rochelle -- the first spent, at least in part, recovering from my first evening in the city. *hic* My excuse, if I...
In Which I Meet Butterflies
August 23, 2007 by Mike in Diary
La Rochelle Route: Saint-Michel-Chef_Chef - Noirmoutier - St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie - Jard-sur-Mer - La Rochelle Today I could have stayed in bed. But it wasn't raining any more. I moved on. The...
In Which The Zavatta Mystery Is Cleared Up
August 22, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Saint Michel Chef Chef A morning of rain, and video editing. (Results to follow, if I can get iMovie to work ever again. A curse on this modern technological world...
In Which The Heavens Open
August 21, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Saint Michel Chef Chef Yesterday, Monday: the view from my motel window: (Can you make out the Bonnie?) I booked another night, and went back to bed. -- Today: a...
In Which I Track Down The Hattifatteners
August 19, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Concarneau Route: Douarnenez - Pointe du Van - Plozevet - Penmarc'h - Pont-l'Abbe - Benodet - Concarneau .. that's about 40 miles, tops, if you take the direct road. I've...
In Which I Come Across Like A Teenager
August 18, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Douarnenez Route: Le Conquet - Brest - Camaret - St-Nic - Douarnenez "If it's bad weather on 15 August ('Quinze Aout' - the last holiday of the summer) there'll be...
In Which.. Nothing Happens
August 17, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Le Conquet Move right along please, there's nothing to see here: a bit of rain, a bit of sunbathing, a bit of reading, a bit of walking....
In Which I Turn A Corner
August 16, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Le Conquet Route: Plougrescant - Perros-Guirec - Lannion - Henvic - Plouvorn - Plouescat - Brignogan-Plages - Le Conquet Elvis. 30 years. It's been too long. Where are you, buddy?...
In Which One Small Village Of Indomitable Gauls Still Holds Out Against The Invaders
August 15, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Plougrescant Route: Langueux - (back to) Erquy - Langueux - Paimpol - Lanmodez - Treguier - Plougrescant I've ridden about 17,000 miles so far on this trip. Today was the...
In Which I Mount Saint Michael
August 14, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Langueux Route: Ger-Ger-Ger-Granville - Le Mont-St-Michel - St-Malo - St-Cast - Langueux (Langueux, incidentally, where I'm spending the night, is just outside Saint-Brieuc, which would make that list of towns...
In Which I Visit The Big Top
August 13, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Ger-Ger-Ger-Granville Today I was mainly very lazy. I washed some clothes, wrote some bl-- I mean diary, wandered some streets and met a man in a bar who was knowledgeably...
In Which I Wonder If I'm Any Good At This
August 12, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Ger-Ger-Ger-Granville Route: Cherbourg - Herqueville - Barneville-Carteret - Creances - Ger-Ger-Ger-Granville Firstly, back in light rain to the Wild West where I noticed yesterday the site of a motorcycle event:...
In Which I Reach The Wild West
August 11, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Cherbourg Route: Hermanville - Bayeux - Carentan - Ste Marie-du-Mont - St Vaast - Barfleur - Cherbourg There's no such thing as a free lunch and there's no such thing...
In Which I End Up, On The Beach, House Red In Hand
August 10, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Hermanville I finish the day sitting on the beach. A beach, remember, that saw tens of thousands of Allied troops launch the liberation of Europe 63 years ago. Tonight, infused...
In Which I Learn My Lesson
August 9, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Hermanville-sur-Mer Route: Yport - Etretat - Le Havre - Deauville - Hermanville Three Things I Learned About Camping Last Night 1. Don't pitch yr hammock close to the obese man...
In Which I Go House-Hunting
August 8, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Yport Route: Camiers - Cucq - Berck - Le Crotoy - Brighton-les-Pins - Dieppe - Fecamp - Yport Yesterday was lazy. I rode into Le Touquet. It's actually called Le...
In Which I Gaze On The White Cliffs Of Dover
August 6, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Camiers Route: Dunkerque - Calais - Boulogne-sur-Mer - Camiers Lots of towns and villages en route today. (See, I've already started writing en Francais.) Dunkerque Surprisingly little to see in...
In Which I Give Belgium Short Shrift
August 5, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Dunkerque, France Route: Domburg - Westerschelde tunnel - Retranchement (all Holland) - Knokke - Oostende - De Panne (all Belgium) - Dunkerque (France) OK, let's get this out of the...
In Which Nothing Much Happens, Which Is Nice
August 4, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Domburg Not a cloud in the sky. ALL DAY. I walk to the beach. I lie on the beach. I eat lunch.. or rather drink lunch. I walk home. I...
In Which I Manage To Miss Europe's Largest Port
August 3, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Domburg Route: Den Haag - Monster (yes!) - Hoek van Holland - Maasslius - Oostvoorne - Goede - Serooskerke - Oostkapelle - Domburg Just look at the route I took...
In Which I Am Bamboozled By Art
August 2, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Den Haag Route: Castricum - Haarlem - Noordwijk - Den Haag The coast road here is frustrating and reminds me of Sweden in that you don't actually see the sea....
In Which I Have Another Puncture. But...
August 1, 2007 by Mike in Diary
[.. but don't worry, it's not as bad as it seems. See WEDNESDAY below.] Castricum Route: Bergen aan Zee - Castricum A teeny-tiny ride today. About 12 miles, from the...
In Which I Am Back Where I Started To Finish
July 30, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Bergen aan Zee Route: Brighton - Folkestone - (Chunnel) - Calais - Antwerp - Utrecht - Amsterdam a couple of times - Bergen - Bergen aan Zee I left here...
In Which I Dip My Toes
July 29, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Brighton Route: Bournemouth - Brighton A short ride today, not just because I'm still feeling a little delicate. They promised me rain, but all I've had all day is this...
In Which I Hit The Road Again, At Last
July 28, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Bournemouth Route: Norwich - Bournemouth Yes, Bournemouth. A bit of (my) beaten track, I'll admit. To be honest, I didn't expect to get here 'til I was in my 70s....
A Bit More Business.. Again
July 21, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Settle down infront of your computer, stock up on coffee and house red and lock up yer daughters.. things are stirring over here on BesideTheSeaside.eu and I may be back...
A Bit More Business, But No More Biking.. Yet
May 1, 2007 by Mike in Diary
I haven't forgotten you, honest. Each and every one of you. (I think I'm related to most of you, after all.) But with thanks for many emails, txts and calls...
A Little Bit Of Business
February 21, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Norwich Thanks for the messages, emails and kind words for and about my parents. If they understood the Interweb, they'd be very pleased and grateful too. The bike is still...
In Which I Come Out Of The Woodwork
February 13, 2007 by Mike in Diary
Norwich Hello strangers. Just in case you're checking in to see which glam, hot, babe-infested country I'm travelling through, while you sit at home in the cold and rain and...
In Which I Remember How To Update This Site
January 16, 2007 by Mike in Diary
If this seems a tad late to be wishing you a Merry New Year, please bear in mind that I've been in Norwich. We've only just been connected to the...
In Which I Sneak Home For Christmas, Avoiding Ice & Fog
December 17, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Norwich Route: Bergen aan Zee - the A4 - Hoek van Holland - Harwich - the A140 - Norwich Weather forecast: the mild spell ends tonight. Heavy rain in Holland...
In Which I Get A Brief Attack Of The Willies
December 16, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Bergen aan Zee Route: Oosteiende - Bergen aan Zee After a shaky start last night I fell in love with Holland today: The People Filling up at a petrol station...
In Which I Am Glad I'm Not A German Pig
December 15, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Oosteiende, Holland Route: Wangerland - Norden - Emden - Delfzijl - Oosteiende The day started with breakfast: bread, cheese and endless coffee. Hille and Gerreilt were as charming and gracious...
In Which I Am Befriended By.. A Serial Killer?
December 14, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Wangerland Route: Büsum - Meldorf - Glückstad - Krummendeich - Cuxhaven - Bremerhaven - Wilhelmshaven - Wangerland Riding today was all about the wind. Not the scenery, not the road...
In Which I Feel Old
December 13, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Büsum, Germany Route: Astrup - Rømø - Rosenkranz - Dagebüll - Husum - Wesselburen - Büsum It's my birthday. Thanks for all the emails and comments - each and every...
In Which I Meet The Ancestors
December 12, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Astrup Route: Ringkøbing - Esbjerg - Ribe - Astrup I'm sitting this evening on a worn and rickety settee in an old, thick-walled farmhouse down in the low marshes where...
In Which I Make A Complete Fool Of Myself (Yes, Again)
December 11, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Ringkøbing, 10 & 11 December Route (on Sunday): Hanstholm - Thyborøn - Torsminde - Søndervig - Videbæk - Astrup - Ringkøbing Ooops. I made it to Astrup at last -...
It's my birthday on the 13th
December 11, 2006 by Mike in Diary
but you can't send me a birthday text because my phone's not working. Emails should get thrugh, though. --Mike In Denmark... in the rain sniff...
In Which I Learn To Listen To My Friends
December 9, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Hanstholm, 9 December Route: Als - Hals - Frederikshavn - Skagen - Astrup - Løkken - Fjerritslev - Klastrup - Hanstholm I got to the northern tip of Denmark today...
In Which I Cut Denmark In Half.. Ouch!
December 8, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Als, 8 December Route: Frederiksværk - Hundested - Nykøbing - Odden - Ebeltoft - Grenaa - Lystrup - Randers - Ajstrup - Hadsund - Astrup - Als Today, I took...
In Which I Am Interviewed By, Errr, Myself
December 7, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Frederiksværk Route: Copenhagen - Rungsted - Helsingør - Hornbæk - Gilleleje - Tisvilde - Frederiksværk Back on my feet; back on the road. It feels good. I feel.. better, but...
In Which I Have A Lost Day
December 6, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Copenhagen Yes, Copenhagen again. I was violently sick all night -- colourful descriptions available by email -- and miserably flu-ish all day. And I had to move into the Youth...
In Which My Brother Makes My Day
December 5, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Copenhagen The last thing my brother and I said to each other as I left him and his family in Norway was "See you in Denmark": And whaddya know? Here...
In Which I Prove A Point
December 4, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Copenhagen It has come to my attention that there are people who think I write too much. "I don't read each entry," they email/ txt, "To be honest I haven't...
In Which I Find A Danish Hill Or Two
December 3, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Copenhagen Route: Nykøbing - Aastrup - Farø - Møns Klint - Stege - Kalvehave - Fakse - Køge - Copenhagen I know this is coming. You know this is coming....
In Which I Go Island-Hopping
December 2, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Nykøbing Route: Christiansfeld - Middelfart - Helnæs - Faaborg - Aastrup - Spodsbjerg - Tårs - Nykøbing How did I finish yesterday's entry? "I'm in Christiansfeld on the say-so of...
In Which I Name Names
December 1, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Christiansfeld, Denmark Route: Flensburg - Krusa - Sønderborg - Nordborg - Ballebro - Aabenraa - Christiansfeld Another Hergé moment. [Definition: when real life is shown to be based on a...
In Which I Mention Marc Almond's Tattoo
November 30, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Flensburg Route: Eckernforde - Barkelsby - Kappeln - Gundelsby - Dollerup - Glucksburg - Flensburg Don't look at that list of towns en route and imagine this was a long...
In Which East Meets West
November 29, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Eckernforde Route: Ahrenshoop - Warnemünde - Wismar - Lübeck - Travemünde - Oldenburg - Kiel - Eckernforde OK, OK so I cheated you of yesterday's details. You know, when I...
In Which I Repeat Myself Repeat Myself
November 28, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Ahrenshoop Route: Stralsund - Putbus - Binz - Sassnitz - Stralsund - Barth - Ahrenshoop It had to happen. After more than four months, I repeat myself: "Why am I...
In Which I Hand Over The Reins
November 26, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Berlin The bike was being serviced over the weekend so I snuck off by train to Berlin, to see an old friend. Who has generously agreed to tell you what...
In Which, Gentle Reader, I See A Waxdick
November 24, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Stralsund Got my contact lenses. Wandered round old Hanseatic Stralsund: lots has been rebuilt and/ or renovated. The old market places are full of stalls: a proper German Weihnachtsmarkt, Remy...
In Which I Go Out Of My Way
November 22, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Stralsund, Germany Route: Swinoujscie - Szczecin - Pasewalk - Stralsund Oh to have had access to the Internet and read Alexander from Leeds' comment before I set off. (Hello Sandy...
In Which My Tongue Get Twisted
November 21, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Swinoujscie Route: Kolobrzeg - Trzebiatow - Dziwnowek - Miedzyzdroje - Swinoujscie I wake to a dawn chorus - thousands of birds gathering in the park across the street. Is this...
In Which I Get All Deflated
November 20, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kolobrzeg Route: Chalupy - Karwia - Wejherowo - Slupsk - Koszalin - Kolobrzeg (with a bit of help) I haven't met many Poles so far. Not to talk to. Not...
In Which I Go To Hel And Back
November 19, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Chalupy Route: Gdansk - Sopot - Gdynia - Reda - Puck - Wladyslawowo - Chalupy - Hel - Chalupy I have a Polish spy. Everyone should. They're highly recommended. (Don't...
In Which History Is Made, Made And Made Again
November 18, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Gdansk On Friday morning I wave goodbye to the creature comforts of the Novitel and relocate to the B&B I've found on the internet. Or rather, one of the three...
Update on Friday 17 November
November 17, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Gdansk Greetings from Poland. And Gdansk which, when I get back up-to-date with the blo-- I mean diary, I'll be describing as one of the most attractive cities I've ever...
In Which A Grim & Distant Frontier Is Breached
November 16, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Gdansk, Poland Route: Kaliningrad - Mamonowo - Gronowo - Elblag - some obscure back roads - Gdansk -- This is a long one: sorry. -- What I haven't found space...
In Which We See Kaliningrad Through Five (Or Is It Four?) Sets Of Eyes
November 15, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kalingrad Gayane was born in Kazachstan to Armenian parents. (On the whole, I decided it was prudent not to ask her what she thinks of Borat.) I stopped to ask...
In Which I Enter A Strange & Mysterious Place
November 13, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kaliningrad, Roosia Route: Nida - Zelenogradsk - Kaliningrad Well, fancy that. Mike With from Norwich, writing a blo-- I mean diary, and starting it by recording where I am --...
In Which I Am Beaten To It By Some Adventurous Armenians
November 12, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Nida Route: Klaipeda - Nida. Not far, really. The ferry from Klaipeda to the tip of the Curonian Spit takes about three minutes, but only because they go so slowly....
In Which I Am Recognised (For Real, This Time)
November 11, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Klaipeda, Lithuania Route: Liepaja - Klaipeda Look again at the map. Yes, now. Before you read another word! I'm in Klaipeda, known for half a millennium as Memel - until...
In Which I Am Recognised
November 10, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Liepaja Juuris stopped in his tracks when he saw me. He was swaying, ever so slightly, on his well-shod feet; a scarf tossed with dandy distain around his neck; hair...
In Which To The Most Dreary Place Of Latvia Is My Visit
November 9, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Liepaja Route: Riga - Saldus - Most Dreary Place In Country - Liepaja When in the morning the awakening I did it was sunshine to see in from the windows...
In Which I Don't Meet Myself
November 8, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Riga I don't mention him lightly, and I am not not NOT presuming to compare myself to him, but the only thing I can remember about Alan Whicker is his...
Update on Monday 6 November
November 6, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Riga Hello again Another quick note, rather than the regular diary updates I'm trying to keep going when I can. I'm in Riga - yes __that __Riga, capital of Latvia...
In Which I Wish I Wasn't Quite So Obviously English
November 6, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Riga More on Riga, and Latvia. That's what I promised last night. Hmmmmm. [Ma, you may prefer to just see the pictures today!] I went into the city centre yesterday,...
In Which I Have To Make A Decision
November 5, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Riga Route: Saulkrasti - Riga It was already bright and sunny when I woke up and, being 100 metres from the sea, I strolled over the main road and picked...
In Which I Am Once More Saved By A Stranger
November 4, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Saulkrasti, Latvia Route: Pärnu - Ikla - Ainazi - Salacgriva - Saulkrasti Yesterday I was touched by Rein and Jaak in Tallinn. Today I have to thank Jaanus in Pärnu....
In Which I Get Lucky
November 3, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Pärnu Route: Tallinn - Pärnu A sunny morning. The exact opposite of what all the weather forecasts are saying - CNN, BBC World, Estonian TV, about fifteen different websites. I've...
In Which I Take A Ride Through The Norfolk Countryside
November 2, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Tallinn Route (on Wednesday): Narva - Kohtla-Järve - Rakvere - Tallinn I missed one of the big events of the year in Narva by about a week. The papers are...
In Which I Settle Down To Watch Estonian TV
October 31, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Narva So I'm sitting in my room in the Hotell Inger (hello again, Ma!), and I switch on the accursed box. It's about six in the evening: primetime. The first...
In Which I Arrive In Estonia, And So Does The Snow
October 30, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Narva (Estonia) Route: St Petersburg - Ivangarod - Narva I'm holed up in the Hotell Inger; 200 metres inside Estonia. I got out of Roosia just in time -- that's...
Update on Monday 30 October
October 30, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Hello everyone Not that I assume anyone's noticed, but as I've not updated for ten days -- having been pretty consistant before -- this is a very quick note to...
In Which I Fight For The Freedom Of The Roosian People
October 29, 2006 by Mike in Diary
St Petersburg This is a very special city in a beautiful country. There are some amazing people here. Why, then, do I wake up every morning with a pang? Why...
In Which I Compare St Petersburg With, Errr, Newcastle
October 26, 2006 by Mike in Diary
St Petersburg *clears throat* Happy Birthday to yoooooou Happy Birthday to yoooooou Happy Biiiirthdaaaaay dear Kaaaaaay Ceeeeeeeee Happy Birthday to yoooooou with love from yr kid brother xx -- I'm...
In Which Is Revealed How To Get Through The Finnish-Roosian Border
October 23, 2006 by Mike in Diary
St Petersburg, Roosia Route: Helsinki - the border - St Petersburg Riding the bike today has been one of the biggest thrills of my life. The buzz I got.. inCREDible.....
In Which I Meet A Super Jumping Monster Bike
October 22, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kauniainen I'm loving it here. So what's been so good about my time in Helsi-- I mean Kauniainen? I've had time and space to get on with things but been...
In Which I Get Excited By... Clear Silicon Sealant
October 20, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kauniainen, on the outskirts of Helsinki Route (on Wednesday): Pargas - Kaarina - Salo - Espoo - lots of suburbs - Kauniainen Note to anyone who may know Stephen Sykes,...
In Which I Break A Cardinal Rule
October 17, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Pargas (aka Parainen) Route: Naantali - Turku - Pargas - Nagu - Korpo - Nagu - Pargas All of a sudden, I'm confronted with one of the most beautiful roads...
In Which I Fail To Discover The Hattifatteners' Secret
October 16, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Naantali Route: Yyteri - Pori - Eurajoki - Sammallahdenmäki - Rauma - Pyhäranta - Lepäinen - Uusikaupunki - Vehmaa - Naantali How many times in life do you ride through...
In Which I Own Up To My Superstitions
October 15, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Yyteri Route: Vaasa - Malax - Korsnäs - Närpes - Kristiinankupunki - Meri-Pori - Yyteri "The countryside you're heading for isn't quite as interesting as some other parts of Finland,...
In Which I Jump Naked Into The Baltic Sea
October 14, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Vaasa To the Ostro-Bothnian Museum - not something you can easily do if you're not in Ostro-Bothnia. It celebrates both the natural wonders of the Kvarken, and the history of...
In Which I Bond With Some Very Old Motorcycles
October 13, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Vaasa Route: Oulu - Lumijoki - Kalajoki - Kokkola - Jakobstad - Vaasa As I sat this morning in the roadside grilli kioski, I pondered the fact that the man...
In Which I Confess To Not Freezing In My Hammock
October 11, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Oulu Route (on Tuesday): Haparanda - Kemi - Oulu I'm in Oulu. It's the largest town this far north in Scandinavia. 128,983 people live here, making it the sixth-largest in...
In Which Sweden Finally Sees The Back Of Me
October 9, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Haparanda Route: Umeå - Norrfjärden - Skellefteå - Piteå - Luleå - Haparanda The signposts to Haparanda began shortly after I pulled out of Gävle, a loooooong way south. I...
In Which I Find Out Who Loves Porgy (But Not Bess)
October 8, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Umeå Route: Gävle - Umeå Sometimes it's about the travelling: how the bike feels beneath me; the moment you crest a hill and find out just what the world has...
In Which I Discover The Elixir Of Eternal Youth
October 7, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Gävle Route (on Friday): Stockholm - Gustavsberg - Vaxholm - Åkersberga - Östhammar - Gävle (Hello. If you're here for The Elixir Of Eternal Youth, scroll straight down to the...
In Which I Fall For Stockholm's Beauty
October 5, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Stockholm Route (on Monday): Farjestaden - Kalmar - Oskarshamn - Norrköping - Nyköping - Stockholm I've been in Stockholm for a couple of days and yes, I'll admit it (through...
In Which I Have Nothing Good To Say About Anything
October 2, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Farjestaden Stuck in my cabin for half the day waiting for an immense rainstorm to pass. Then trudged through puddles (in Finland they would be called lakes) to the swanky...
In Which I Visit The Swedish Navy
October 1, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Farjestaden Route: Åhus - Karlskrona - Kristianopel - Kalmar - Farjestaden (Öland) Dear reader, let me remind you how I finished yesterday by: "continuing to Åhus' campsite. The day ends...
In Which I Write An Open Letter To Malmö
September 30, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Åhus Route: Malmö - Falsterbo - Ystad - Simrishamn - Kivik - Åhus Dear Malmö What a miserable place you are. Drab and plain with a chip on yr shoulder...
In Which I Photograph A Library
September 29, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Malmö Route: Varberg - Halmstad - Helsingborg - Malmö I rode as far as Varberg last night in order to be set for an important day today: I had a...
In Which Norway Finally Gets Rid Of Me
September 28, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Varberg, Sweden! Route: Høvik - Oslo - Moss - Sarpsborg - Strömstad - Gothenburg - Varberg As I drove past Gothenburg this afternoon, down a motorway in the rain, it...
In Which I Meet A Future Prime Minister (Of Norway)
September 27, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Høvik Rise up! Rise up, people of Norway!! Your taxes aren't going on healthcare and social security. (They certainly aren't going on road repairs in Finnmark.) Instead they are being...
Me Me Me Me Me Me Me Me
September 26, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Sorry to be such a self-publicist, but.. well.. here goes.. Before leaving Norwich, about 100 years ago, I was sitting in my parents' living room, reading the local paper. The...
In Which I Learn To Love Reality TV
September 26, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Høvik I hate "reality TV". It's all so utterly UNreal. Can't stand the preening need to be on TV at all costs. Famous for being famous. Or rather infamous for...
In Which I Remember To Update This Site
September 25, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Høvik Hello stranger -- Sorry I've been so bad at keeping in touch recently. You know how it is -- life getting in the way. (What's your excuse for not...
In Which I Finally Get Round To Sending My Postcards
September 17, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Just outside Oslo Hiya.. Trip's going brilliantly. Discovering Norway + Norwegians a real buzz for me. Got to Nick's place in Høvik a few days ago. Gt to see them....
In Which I Cry Out: 'Rosebud!'
September 11, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kragerø Route: Risør - Stabbestad - Kragerø Well, it had to happen eventually. My worst nightmare... other than Ipswich winning the FA Cup and, y'know, georgebushalqaedaglobalwarmingbeigegenocidehiv. Or someone announcing they've...
In Which Nostalgia Grabs Me By The Throat
September 10, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Risør Route: Kristiansand - Lillesand - Grimstad - Arendal - Risør The Family With used to arrive in Kristiansand at the start of the summer holidays, 'fresh' off the boat...
In Which Maggie's Boys Take A Hell Of A Beating
September 9, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kristiansund Route: Stavanger - Nordsjøvegen (The North Sea Road) - Egersund - Flekkejord - Lindesnes - Kristiansand Rather than bore you with my limited vocabulary of biking cliches -- you...
In Which I Miss My Bike
September 8, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Stavanger I haven't been Mike Travelling Round Europe On A Motorbike for the last few days. Just Mike, pottering around a fine city and a lovely flat, relaxing, doing the...
In Which I Evoke Marilyn Monroe, Robert Mitchum And, Err, Jim Carrey
September 5, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Stavanger Route: Haugesund - Karmøy - Stavanger I only rode 30 miles today. That and an 85-minute ferry ride is all that separates these two cities. That, and the island...
In Which I Give Bergen A Miss
September 4, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Haugesund Route: Sogndal - Balestrand - Oppedal - Leirvag - Bergen - Os - Leivik - Haugesund It rained on me on 16 different occasions today. Sometimes quite lightly; a...
In Which I Cannot Believe My Ears
September 3, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Sogndal Route: Skeid - under Jostedalsbreen - Sogndal To Astrupturen, Nikolai Astrup's home, now a museum and gallery - Nikolai, you'll remember, being my great-grandfather's cousin and, by the way,...
In Which I Take a Happy Wrong Turn
September 2, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Skeid - although it's also spelled Skei Route: Ålesund - Volda - Nordfjordeid - Skei I'm sitting this evening in the rain in a smelly, tatty cabin about 12 feet...
In Which I Tick All My Boxes
September 1, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Ålesund Now this was a day... Let me break it down into its constituent parts but, as you read, remember this all came in one rather wonderful day: 1. Atlanterhavsvegen...
In Which Everyone Gets On Their Bike
August 30, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Flakk - just outside Trondheim I came to bury Trondheim, not to praise it. By the time I got off to sleep in my luxurious bed (a double bed.. wow!)...
In Which I Get To Test My Waterproof Clothes At Last
August 29, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Flakk - just outside Trondheim Route: Rørvik - Hofles - Lund - Namsos - Steinkjer - Mosvik - Rørvik (another one) - Flakk I'm in Trondheim - or near as...
In Which The Quest For Reindeer Comes To An End
August 28, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Rørvik, Helgeland Route: Sandnessjøen - Tjøtta - Brønnøysund - Vik - Rørvik Two more ferries on the southbound stretch today, only one of which did I manage nearly to miss....
In Which I Smell Fresh Again - Phew!
August 27, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Sandnessjøen Route: didn't go anywhere; just stayed home and washed clothes. It was great. 'Home' being Belsvåg campsite, a short way south of Sandnessjøen. Actually, 12 miles. I know...
In Which A Great Day Is Had
August 26, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Sandnessjöen, Helgeland, Norway. Route: Saltstraumen - Ågskaret - Kilboghamn - Nesna - Låvong - Sandnessjöen Why am I doing this trip? Pretty much, I'd say, for days like this. (ps:...
In Which I Finally Leave The Sub-Tropical Arctic
August 25, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Saltstraumen Route: Narvik - Skarberget - Fauske - Saltstraumen Narvik in the morning is every bit as beautiful as Narvik at night. To the War Museum, the war being the...
In Which I Don't See A Ghost
August 24, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Narvik Route: Borg - Svolvaer - Skutvik - Skarberget - Narvik Why was I in Borg? Why, to take a picture of the village sign of course. (Crazy name, huh,...
In Which I Come Over All David Attenborough
August 23, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Borg, Lofoten Islands, Norway Route: Nusfjord - Å - Leknes - Borg Managed to leave Nusfjord without even stepping into a boat: not the lovely gammeldags fishing boat that goes...
In Which I Find Myself In The Company Of Strange Men
August 22, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Nusfjord, Lofoten Islands, Norway Where to begin..? Where to begin..? So much to tell you... all of it fascinating of course. (Fingers crossed.) Where to begin: The Zimbabwean landscape...
In Which I See The Northern Lights And Am Rendered Speechless (At Last)
August 20, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Stokmarknes It feels like ages since I was last here. Have you missed me like I've missed you? (If the answer is "Who is this Mike bloke, anyway?" please don't...
In Which I Contemplate The Great Sweep Of History. And Smokie.
August 18, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Tromsø Again, no reindeer. Though having said that, I've been in the middle of a city of 60,000 people all day - not the reindeers' natural habitat. I've enjoyed stopping...
In Which.. Well, It's Just Too Exciting To Say
August 16, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Got drunk in a bar in Tromsø with the lead singer from Smokie. Yes! Life just doesn't get any better....
In Which I Start To Leave The Arctic
August 15, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Tromsø It might seem strange, perched 600 miles north of the Arctic Circle, to be talking of leaving the Arctic, but that's how it feels. Not just because of the...
In Which I Witter On About Not Very Much, As Is My Wont
August 14, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Nordkjosbotn, north Norway Vindicated! I wrote yesterday of "spitting, then cascading, rain" and I know, I just know, that you sat there thinking... 'there he goes again. One spot of...
In Which It Rains. A Lot.
August 13, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Sorstraumen, Norway Route: Alta - Oksfjord - Sorstraumen Set off from Alta in such hot weather that I took the thick, padded lining out of my trousers for the first...
In Which I Witter On About Not Very Much, As Is My Wont
August 11, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Alta Friday 11 & Saturday 12 August - With a staggeringly huge population of 18,000, Alta is bigger than all the other places I've stayed -- Berlevåg, Kirkenes, Inari, Jokkmokk,...
A Bit Of Website Business
August 9, 2006 by Mike in Diary
A word or two on the site as I can get online but not via the laptop, so my diary entries will have to wait: First and foremost, thanks to...
In Which I Am, Briefly, Europe's Northernmost Motorcycling Blogger
August 9, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Alta - which feels southern enough to fry chicken, but is still north of Murmansk. Route: Berlevag (by boat to) Honningsvag - Nordkapp - Hammerfest - Alta I wasn't disappointed...
In Which Mike With Eats Fish
August 9, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Hello everyone. Just testing a new mapping idea. Hope you like it.. it'll disappear from this page soon. --Mike Berlevag A concerned reader writes: "So what exactly are you feeding...
In Which I Dissect A Small Town Before Yr Very Eyes
August 8, 2006 by Mike in Diary
or.. Ten Things That Interest Me About Berlevag Berlevåg (and the great thing about this little world of ours is... take any town, village or hamlet, any community of say...
In Which I Come Home
August 7, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Berlevåg I should start with a disclaimer. I haven't come home home. The trip isn't over already. Promise. I'm not sitting in Norwich pretending to be in the Arctic. Here.....
In Which Norway Disappoints Me
August 6, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kirkenes Firstly, on reading an email from me old mucker Remy, who has the temerity to be half-Swedish. He's noticed that while Swedish women have turned my eye on this...
In Which I Find Out How Norwegians Let Their Hair Down
August 5, 2006 by Mike in Diary
A leisurely day hanging out in Kirkenes. I started out at the lake just above the town centre. A parade of likely lads and lasses were being pushed from a...
In Which The Mystery Of The Russian James Bond Is Revealed
August 4, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kirkenes - and sorry, this is another long one. OK, OK, so I know you've been desperate to find out about this James Bond business. Haven't you? Held for four...
In Which I Get To Meet A Real-Life Russian James Bond
August 3, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Murmansk Better not say too much 'til I'm back over the Norwegian border (tomorrow) but let's just say nobody will ever have to listen to my "when I was arrested...
In Which I Realise I Know Nothing About Murmansk
August 2, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Murmansk, Russia ... not that I'm alone in this. Nobody in Murmansk knows anything about their city either. The receptionist at my hotel ('the best in the city') knew nothing....
In Which I Am Vexed By The Question Of Sheds
August 1, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Murmansk, Russia Route: Kirkenes - Nikel - Petsjenga - Murmansk Kirkenes first: small towns are almost the same everywhere. A couple of skateboarders trying to rebel (one of whom, charmingly,...
In Which I Finally Get Online
August 1, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kirkenes Hello to anyone who's out there. I've had a brilliant time so far -- except for finding wi-fi internet connections. I mean, who'd have thought it wouldf be hard...
In Which I Find Myself On Top Of The World
July 31, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Kirkenes, Norway Route: Inari - Sevettijarvi - Kirkenes And so I come to the sea again. 1859 miles after leaving Norwich (and never let it be said that anyone can...
In Which I Reach Finland In A State Of Some Confusion
July 30, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Inari, Finnish Lapland Route: Jokkmokk - - - Inari A freezing night -- far to cold to get out of the sleeping bag to put on the clothes that would...
Greetings from the Arctic
July 30, 2006 by Mike in Diary
In which I apologise for not having spent all the time I've actually been on the road, sitting tapping away at a computer keyboard instead! This is a short (but...
In which I Discover Motorcyclists, Elk And Reindeer
July 29, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Jokkmokk, Swedish Lapland Route: Vemdalen - - Jokkmokk Silly Mike (I): Today is Saturday. Why would a cybercafe open on a Saturday? When people might actually want to use it?...
In Which A Death Is Announced
July 28, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Vemdalen, central Sweden Route: Vaggeryd -Vemdalen (STOCKHOLM, Agencies) Pele Jonsson, the last ugly petrol station attendant in Sweden, is dead. Jonnsssonn was also the last surviving male petrol attendant and...
In Which I Make it To Foreign Climes
July 27, 2006 by Mike in Diary
Vaggeryd, south of Jonkoping, Sweden Route: Esbjerg - Odense - Copenhagen - Malmo - Helsingborg - Ljungby - Vaggeryd I've never seen the North sea so smooth. You'd have more...
In Which I Finally Get Underway
July 26, 2006 by Mike in Diary
On board the ferry to Denmark This, finally, is the day I finally get underway. At last. Finally, in fact. It's ben a long time coming (five years, almost to...
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